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Staining Boyds Stock

Reaper76USMC

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I recently picked up a Boyds Pro Varmint stock for a Remington 597. It came unfinished and I've gotten it sanded down to 1500 grit. I dampened it to raise the grain and used 1500 on that and repeated a few times.

I want it a flat or satin black, but with the grain still showing, so some kind of stain. I'm considering Minwax Ebony stain, but I've also seen where people use the steel wool in white vinegar method on wood and it looks pretty awesome. Does anyone here have experience staining a Boyds stock? Anything unusual I should watch out for? Anyone tried the steel wool in vinegar stain? I'm wondering if it will change color later on if I do it.

I'm also considering using a white grain filler on top of the stain, then sanding. This should leave some tiny flecks of white in the otherwise black wood, then clear coat over it all. It should look awesome if I can get it to come out right.

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What type of wood is it? I would find a scrap piece of the same material and try some samples. What ever you do put up before and after pics.
 
I don't know the wood type. I looked at the Boyds website, and it just says hardwood. It doesn't seem all that hard, I'm familiar with what walnut and oak look like, I've used them before in projects. This is much softer and very, very pale. I'm guessing it's poplar, which is considered a "hardwood", but is actually pretty soft. It's about like pine, but with much thinner grain lines. I'm planning on taking it down to Rockler and seeing what they make of it.

I'm still trying to figure out if the steel wool and vinegar stain maintains its color over time and if it has any detrimental effects on the wood long term. Google is not finding much so far. I'm not in a too big of a hurry and I would like to get this right. I'll try to remember to include photos when this is done.

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I did a laminated Boyds and had to sand original finish with 100 then 220. Had to leave it rough( to take tannin) and stained with Tannin first (tea works). then stained 4 or 5 times before it took on enough stain to get the shade I wanted. Then I sanded down with 400 and put at least 10 coats of BOL to seal the grain. cured for a few weeks and used xx steel wool to dull a touch.

The tannin helps the stain take is what an older wood worker told me. It turned out good, just a PITA.
 
Well, I decided against the vinegar and steel wool finish. I didn't want any acidity in a stock that might cause the metal parts to corrode, so went down to Rockler to see what they suggested. I picked up some pre-stain conditioner and some gel stain. I had never used gel stain before, but the guy said that was the blackest stain they had. He suggested I used a rag and rub it in.

Well, that stain did next to nothing as far as blackening the wood, so I tried putting it on heavier, but that only left wipe marks. Then I tried thinning it a touch. Still heavily streaked.

While it dried I looked up gel stain streaking. Turns out gel stain is technically a modified paint. Screw this garbage, I'll never buy any again. I've had better results with Minwax.

Now I have to see if I can sand it enough get it smooth again, then I'm going to just paint it black. So much for seeing the wood grain show a little on a black stock.

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Dude, That sucks. I've only used gel stain once and wasn't very pleased with it. It wasn't on a stock though

You might be able to paint it then use some white on the grain still. It won't have the wood look but it would give it some character.
 
I have used solvent based leather stain before with good results. The non flamable stains do not work in my experience.
 
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