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Shims Causing Suppressor Alignment Issues

Swab

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I'm attempting to install a Griffin taper mount muzzle device on a new rifle and it's requiring a lot of shims to get it to time correctly. Once I get it timed and torqued, the alignment rod is close enough to (or is) making contact with the suppressor that I won't shoot it in it's current state. The only shims I have are .002" and .01" and it's requiring (3) .01" and (4) .002" shims to time. When I snug up the brake without using shims, there are no alignment issues.

I'm using the same brake on three other rifles without issue but none of them required this many shims. Anybody have any pointers? My logic tells me I need to find some thicker shims, hopefully close to the .038" I need, otherwise, I guess I'll need to get the shoulder cut back a bit, which I'd like to avoid.
 
If using no shims and the alignment is correct, is the attachment timed properly? If so, then you shouldn't need any shims. This is just my thinking, shims are to help with the timing.
If you are a member on ar15.com, go to the Silencer section and ask this same question and tag member "Greeno", that is Evan, one of G.A. owners.
 
You want to be careful with shims and suppressors... A whole stack of them can cause concentricity issues.

Do you have the shim pack that Griffin sends with their muzzle devices? There should be different thicknesses in there. I've never had to use more than one to get one of their devices clocked, although sometimes you need to apply a lot of torque to get that last little bit.
 
You want to be careful with shims and suppressors...
That's why we're here. It's about 7 "hours" out of time. No combination of the Griffin supplied shims decrease the amount of shims needed.

And I'm not being dick, just FYI. My wife wife tells me I sound like an ass whenever I talk, I assume it transcends through typing as well.
 
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