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Raised Garden Bed

How long does it typically take before fruit trees start producing?
Depends on the age of the tree what type of tree. Is it a whip or in a 5 gal bucket? What's the caliper of the trunk? Most of the trees I've bought have produced the first or second spring. Of course the initial production is light and many intentionally strip the blooms those first couple of season (I don't). The longest exceptions I can think of is a pomegranate. This is the first year it's had any blooms, and has literally hundreds. That tree is 8 years old. To be far it died back to the roots the second year (I think it was) I had it. Still not sure if it will produce fruit, but it's trying. :) The stone fruits I've planted have produced quickly. The regular apples a bit longer (crab apples being the exception). Just so many variables. But don't let time stop you from planting anything. Do it this fall, or right now if you can give it the constant care they'd need during a summer planting.
 
Depends on the age of the tree what type of tree. Is it a whip or in a 5 gal bucket? What's the caliper of the trunk? Most of the trees I've bought have produced the first or second spring. Of course the initial production is light and many intentionally strip the blooms those first couple of season (I don't). The longest exceptions I can think of is a pomegranate. This is the first year it's had any blooms, and has literally hundreds. That tree is 8 years old. To be far it died back to the roots the second year (I think it was) I had it. Still not sure if it will produce fruit, but it's trying. :) The stone fruits I've planted have produced quickly. The regular apples a bit longer (crab apples being the exception). Just so many variables. But don't let time stop you from planting anything. Do it this fall, or right now if you can give it the constant care they'd need during a summer planting.
Fall is the best time to plant, and, in GA climate, Gatorbag donuts are a must for the first 3 years of tree life. Drip irrigation is the best.
Add peatmoss and water pearls to the soil for water retention. Thin layer of gravel, or a thicker layer of sand for drainage on the bottom. No wet feet.
Hole should be 4ft wide by 3ft deep, whether bare root or potted tree. Get rid of the clay and use good topsoil.
3" of mulch over the soil.

PS do not get attached to pomegranate. It is a solid Zone 9 or lower Zone 8 tree. It will die, or frost will kill the flowers. We are zone 7B.

PPS if it died to the root, do you have a pomegrenate or a rootstock tree (usually plum)? Almost every fruit tree is grafted on a rootstock. Including cherries, apples, pears, etc.

PPPS I have tried 1 olive, 2 almonds and 3 apricots. All zone 9, lower zone 8. Only 2 out of 6 are alive and I am yet to see any fruit. April frosts get the flowers.
 
PS do not get attached to pomegranate. It is a solid Zone 9 or lower Zone 8 tree. It will die, or frost will kill the flowers. We are zone 7B.


I do not intend to disagree w/ you and realize there are exceptions to every rule. W/ that said, this pomegranate has been in my daddy's back yard for at least 25 years. I live right beside him, and you know where I live:

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I do not intend to disagree w/ you and realize there are exceptions to every rule. W/ that said, this pomegranate has been in my daddy's back yard for at least 25 years. I live right beside him, and you know where I live:

View attachment 2669242
There are freakish microclimates and unusual genetics that when combined can break all the rules but mostly the rules are going to apply.
 
I do not intend to disagree w/ you and realize there are exceptions to every rule. W/ that said, this pomegranate has been in my daddy's back yard for at least 25 years. I live right beside him, and you know where I live:


View attachment 2669242
You are a lucky dog! It mist not be in a cold pocket and sheltered. I did not try pomegrenate. I lost 1 olive (shtered by the house), 2 out of 3 apricots, and 1 out 2 almonds. Have not seen fruit on apricot or almond in 8 years. Frost gets the flowers every time.
All trees were "supposed" to be suitable for zone 7, but they really are zone 9 and 8, just like thr older varities.
 
Fall is the best time to plant, and, in GA climate, Gatorbag donuts are a must for the first 3 years of tree life. Drip irrigation is the best.
Add peatmoss and water pearls to the soil for water retention. Thin layer of gravel, or a thicker layer of sand for drainage on the bottom. No wet feet.
Hole should be 4ft wide by 3ft deep, whether bare root or potted tree. Get rid of the clay and use good topsoil.
3" of mulch over the soil.

PS do not get attached to pomegranate. It is a solid Zone 9 or lower Zone 8 tree. It will die, or frost will kill the flowers. We are zone 7B.

PPS if it died to the root, do you have a pomegrenate or a rootstock tree (usually plum)? Almost every fruit tree is grafted on a rootstock. Including cherries, apples, pears, etc.

PPPS I have tried 1 olive, 2 almonds and 3 apricots. All zone 9, lower zone 8. Only 2 out of 6 are alive and I am yet to see any fruit. April frosts get the flowers.
I've had amazing success with (vertical) tree tubes. No soil amendments other than bagged tree soil. I've never used irrigation and have yet to lose a tree that was planted in fall. It's a pom. It was not grafted. About 8' tall now. I know I'm pushing it zone wise. Its not fruiting unfortunately despite the blooms. :(
I only planted one apricot. It fruits every year (over 10 years now) but I don't spray anything so bugs and brown rot get all of them. Most everything I plant was for the wildlife. Bugs, worms and fungus are wildlife right? :doh:
 
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