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Need Storage Shed Mover - Resolved

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Try Bucks Towing down in Haralson. They have a large rollback. Let them know the building is being moved on the property and not down a hwy.
 
I only use the shed for storing outdoor stuff....I save the shot spillage for my basement floor. Seems to take years to get them all tracked down and vacuumed up.

I might give the local tow company a call and see if they can come move it for me. I've considered just hooking my tractor to it and dragging it, but I don't want to risk damaging it. It is still a nice shed.

If you take your time, use 3 or 4 poles and some chain, moving it is no problem. It would be nice to have a couple of helpers.
 
Unless the terrain is hilly and one of the skids will dig into a bank or hit a tree stump or big root.. then I’d haul that thing with the tractor.

Whoever wrecker driver drags your building up and onto their flatbed is putting more stresses on your building’s framing than you prolly will by pulling it with your tractor flat in your back yard.

Professional haulers will run the buckle end of a steel cable or long chain starting from the outside of one skid and up and over that skid between the 1st and 2nd floor joist (not counting the header joist) and continue between those 2 joists up and over the opposite skid to the outside.

Don’t creat a noose with the cable/chain so the skids aren’t forced to pigeon-toe, I’d hook each cable/chain end to each side of your tractor’s bucket (or each arm of your 3 point hitch) or similar. Pull low, slow and steady.

For leveling, and if your tractor has a bucket, then use it to lift up one corner of one skid’s end and put cap blocks there, and repeat for all your corners until level.

If you don’t have a bucket, then you can simply jack under the header joist itself (unless termite damage or rotted) it’s a strong jack point and where the professionals jack new buildings for leveling. I personally use a railroad jack.

Before you begin, You’ll need to slightly jack each side to remove your old cap blocks and have your skids setting on the ground.
 
If you aren't getting on the road almost any longer roll back should get it. The building is 11' wide, how far apart are the skids? That's the only part hitting the truck.

I moved mine with pipes and my pickup truck. Jacked it up and put 2 inch cast iron pipes under it. Really all the pipes ended up doing was keep it from digging into the ground. they didn't roll to well.
 
Have skided a small building with my tractor but added extra bracing to keep from ripping the building apart. We rolled it on fenceposts because the ground was uneven.

Kind of like what this guy does:


Full disclosure: I was much younger and in much better shape ;-)
 
I know several professional building haulers but are quite the distance from you and they charge $450-$600 to move and setup/level.
 
Moved one that was 10 x 16 back in the day, about 100 ft. Almost exactly like the video, but we drilled pilot holes and installed eyelets to the inside of the skids. Y'd the chain back to skids from the drawbar. Raise the lift a few inches to get the nose of the shed off the ground slightly, pulled away slowly.

Slid well. We waited for a dry spell to make sure the ground was hard.
 
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