You will need a wide band oxygen sensor to read A/F ratio. LS2 will need about 22 degree wide open throttle for power. LS1 around 28 degrees. Vengeance Racing or MOE'S shop. You need a professional tuner on a dyno so they can dial in your VE tables. MAF will need to tuned as well. They need a HP tuners suite and Diagnostic program. You need to go down the diagnostic trouble code list and turn off all EGR codes and turn the front two O2 sensors off. That will turn the check engine light off. You can get the full list of DTC off LS1 tech forum. They must have HP tuners though. Finding leak HP and Torque and dialing in AFR is easy. Piece of cake but there is no way around not paying. The Owners of those tuners have to buy credits Jk each car the scan the vin number of. It use to be 100 each car I wouldn't know now probably went up. Or they paid a outrageous being for unlimited credits. Charging money for you car to be downloaded is the only way they re-coupe some of that expense.
With HP tuners you can add timing until the knock sensors start registering then back off a couple degrees. You also have two timing tables one for low octane and one for 91 octane. For all out performance you want to scrub out the low octane table. That way the vehicle is strictly running on 91 octane cable and will give you full power all the time but you have to use 91 octane fuel all the time. The few things that you need done are not very hard but you will have to pay somebody for the credits. And the only real way to scan this and play back the run so that you can see where the high and low spots are, is to have the diagnostics to be able to store that run and go back and make changes and flatten the fuel line out. Then if you have nitrous you have to back off 2° for every 50 horsepower you have. Or you could do it like my setup and order timing tuner that you can program in to shut off and cut on a certain RPM and only it wide open throttle. You can also control the timing as well. It has a proximity switch that one engages subtracts timing and allows the nitrous to kick on at a certain RPM and turn off at a certain RPM. I usually had mine turn on at about 2,800 (do not do not run nitrous below 2500 rpm period ) and then shut off at about 6800 RPM and shift at 7000 RPM. What you want done a simple enough you just got to find somebody that's willing to take the time to do it.
The proper way to tune the engine is to turn the MAF off and then tune while it's on a Dyno with a load. Then after the engine is tuned you have to turn around and tune the MAF. It's a long drawn-out process it takes a long time and it used to cost about a thousand bucks. But if this is going to be a street car or something you want to drive on the street then you need a professional tune done on it. If it's just a race car and you can do simple air fuel ratio and a timing adjustments.
With HP tuners you can add timing until the knock sensors start registering then back off a couple degrees. You also have two timing tables one for low octane and one for 91 octane. For all out performance you want to scrub out the low octane table. That way the vehicle is strictly running on 91 octane cable and will give you full power all the time but you have to use 91 octane fuel all the time. The few things that you need done are not very hard but you will have to pay somebody for the credits. And the only real way to scan this and play back the run so that you can see where the high and low spots are, is to have the diagnostics to be able to store that run and go back and make changes and flatten the fuel line out. Then if you have nitrous you have to back off 2° for every 50 horsepower you have. Or you could do it like my setup and order timing tuner that you can program in to shut off and cut on a certain RPM and only it wide open throttle. You can also control the timing as well. It has a proximity switch that one engages subtracts timing and allows the nitrous to kick on at a certain RPM and turn off at a certain RPM. I usually had mine turn on at about 2,800 (do not do not run nitrous below 2500 rpm period ) and then shut off at about 6800 RPM and shift at 7000 RPM. What you want done a simple enough you just got to find somebody that's willing to take the time to do it.
The proper way to tune the engine is to turn the MAF off and then tune while it's on a Dyno with a load. Then after the engine is tuned you have to turn around and tune the MAF. It's a long drawn-out process it takes a long time and it used to cost about a thousand bucks. But if this is going to be a street car or something you want to drive on the street then you need a professional tune done on it. If it's just a race car and you can do simple air fuel ratio and a timing adjustments.
