• ODT Gun Show & Swap Meet - May 4, 2024! - Click here for info

Loose Enfield Stock

I'm one of ones that uses blue on scope mounts/optics. I do not use it on structural elements like barrel/receiver mounts or stock mounting. I have encountered so much ecess blue on the interior of a 10/22 receiver with improperly mounted rail that I had to use heat and files to remove it so that the action would work (not my rifle.)
 
I'm one of ones that uses blue on scope mounts/optics. I do not use it on structural elements like barrel/receiver mounts or stock mounting. I have encountered so much ecess blue on the interior of a 10/22 receiver with improperly mounted rail that I had to use heat and files to remove it so that the action would work (not my rifle.)
I use the blue version on optic mounts too, but sparingly. Just a small drop on the screw threads.
 
Blue works, but per loctite it’s not ideal for the small screws. Blue 242 says right on it 1/4” to 3/4”. most people also don’t use the primer either which matters or clean the thread surface. It doesn’t like oil. Pink 222 would be more ideal being under 1/4”

my work had them come in and instruct a class on using their products since we use a lot of it. Only reason I know this pointless info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Okay - hold up. If you have a No.1 Mk III, you need to take the forestock off first. If you turn the stock screw without removing the forestock you will crack the forestock. There is a square end on the stock bolt that locks into the forestock. You'll need to re-orient this correctly when you put it back together.

Caveat - once you do take the forestock off, it may still be hard to get the bolt out. Apply some CR Blaster or whatever to the bolt to see if that works. Make sure you have the correct size screwdriver. Use a screwdriver with a square shank so you can put a crescent wrench on it to help turn. OR - best tool I've used for those damn bolts was a tire iron.
 
Okay - hold up. If you have a No.1 Mk III, you need to take the forestock off first. If you turn the stock screw without removing the forestock you will crack the forestock. There is a square end on the stock bolt that locks into the forestock. You'll need to re-orient this correctly when you put it back together.

Caveat - once you do take the forestock off, it may still be hard to get the bolt out. Apply some CR Blaster or whatever to the bolt to see if that works. Make sure you have the correct size screwdriver. Use a screwdriver with a square shank so you can put a crescent wrench on it to help turn. OR - best tool I've used for those damn bolts was a tire iron.

I knew there was something.
 
Okay - hold up. If you have a No.1 Mk III, you need to take the forestock off first. If you turn the stock screw without removing the forestock you will crack the forestock. There is a square end on the stock bolt that locks into the forestock. You'll need to re-orient this correctly when you put it back together.

Caveat - once you do take the forestock off, it may still be hard to get the bolt out. Apply some CR Blaster or whatever to the bolt to see if that works. Make sure you have the correct size screwdriver. Use a screwdriver with a square shank so you can put a crescent wrench on it to help turn. OR - best tool I've used for those damn bolts was a tire iron.
^^^^ that gut is on track... it may not loosen it but you MUST follow that process..
 
Back
Top Bottom