Loading 40 s&w with 155s and Titegroup

[gyppo]

Loading some 40 with 155s and titegroup 5 grains. I need to make around 1070 FPS for major PF.
I do not like the fact that the case is filled at such a low level. I prefer at least half case fill so I cannot miss a double charge.
Any suggestions?
I will be loading a 6 or 8 thousand of these so price per round and available components are a factor.
I could only find 155 and 165 grain extreme bullets so far.
I read that 180gr bullets recoil a lot better in major PF. I have 500 Hornsby 180s but I want to make sure first try the 155s and 165s.

anyone have suggestions? I am not a fan of coated bullets. I have AA2,5,7 and 9. Titegroup and VV N320 and VV 3N38.I refer to keep the VV for 9mm loads and it is not likely I will find any VV powder in the next couple years.

Thanks in advance for suggestions.

 

[1006]

Use the AA#5.

I would start at 7.5 grains with coated 155 grain lead bullets, or Extreme plated bullets.

 

[gyppo]

Use the AA#5

Thanks, will look it up.

 

[Frankmako]

aa#5 is good for 40 s&w.

 

[gyppo]

Shot the 4.9 - 5.0 Titegroup in 155 and 165 extreme today, Function and accuracy were good. I only shot steel so I do not know if any of the plated jackets were shedding. I put a medium crimp, it may be too much for plated bullets.

 

[1006]

If they are working accurately, just be careful not to double charge or over charge them.

 

[gyppo]

If they are working accurately, just be careful not to double charge or over charge them.

Thanks
I am very scared of a double charge. I look at every case for powder level .I have the ratchet disabled on my 1050 so it is possible to double charge. I double charged a few to test that I can recognize it. It is pretty obvious when you visually check the powder level.
I assume 10 grains of Titegroup behind a 155 plated bullet would guarantee a kaboom.
I am shooting it in a chrome STI DVC limited that would probably cost around $3200 to replace if I could find one in 40 so I am being very careful.

 

[1006]

Fortunately, 1911’s are rarely destroyed by an over charge. It usually blows the grips off, and ruins the extractor. Plastic guns are usually destroyed-Glocks, HK, ect, as the grip frame will often split.

Bullet set back can also cause a kaboom in a 40.

Back around 15years ago, I used to shoot IPSC/USPSC with 200grain lead coated bullets in my H&K USP Compact 40. It may have been bullet setback, an over charge, or a double charge. It blew up in my hand without doing much to me, other than stinging my hand and pride. I was alone on the range.

The frame and extractor were destroyed, and the mag came apart, dropping 8 bullets and the mag parts at my feet. I quietly packed up my stuff and went home to ponder my 100% contribution to the failure. HK was nice enough to replace the parts and repair the gun for a price that must have been about their cost for parts and labor. The outcome for the HK was much better than that of a friend’s Glock 22 that blew up while shooting bowling pins. On the Glock, there was not a usable part remaining-barrel, frame, and trigger bar were all ruined. Glock built him a new one out of spare parts.

Since then, I have only used powders that fill the case more than 50%, crimped coated/plated bullets just like jacketed bullets for semi-auto use, and only load 150-170 grain bullets in the 40.

Nothing kabooms like a forty.