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Instructor’s takeaways from recent Guerrilla Sniper Course

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1. We shot through various types of residential double pane glass, with the target set approximately 12” behind the barrier. When shooting through automotive windshields, the distance to the target was from the windshield to the headrest of the front seats.

When shooting through different types of glass and polycarbonate, the general trend is that heavier is better. Students used a variety of 5.56/.223 loads with bullet weights that included 55grn, 62grn, 64grn, 69grn, 75grn, and 77grn. Additionally, I shot some Hornady TAP 5.56 70grn GMX Barrier Penetrator. The heavier bullets had less deflection from POA than the lighter bullets, regardless of bullet construction.

Within the same weight class, purpose-built bullets had less deflection. For instance, the Hornady TAP 55grn GMX Barrier Penetrator had less deflection than M193 ball, but not to a significant degree. A 77grn Sierra MatchKing, which is not an especially tough bullet, had less deflection than the 55grn TAP GMX, but similar deflection to the 70grn TAP GMX. The solid bullet design of the GMX aids slightly over the FMJ as they didn’t tumble or yaw, as the FMJ’s oftentimes did. You could tell on the residential glass that the softpoint rounds mushroomed. On the windshields, they either missed the target entirely, or we were unable to find the exact bullet hole due to so much spalling causing secondary projectiles. When the round mushrooms and makes a jagged hole, it’s difficult to tell from larger glass fragments. Clean holes and keyholes are much easier to locate.

A 168grn .308 had significantly less deflection on automotive windshields than a 140grn 6.5 Creedmoor. A 175grn .308 had slightly less deflection than the 168grn .308. I have some Federal Gold Medal Match .308 loaded with the Berger 185grn Juggernaut en route......very excited to see how it does. I am also curious as to what effect velocity has on the deviation. I plan on loading some 175grn .308’s at various velocities to see how the same projectile reacts at different speeds.

I made a few shots with a 16” .300Blk using 220grn subs. I don’t recommend it as a barrier round. For instance, after going through a 3/8”-1/2” sheet of curved polycarbonate (side door window out of a typical piece of earth moving equipment, like a dozer or skidsteer), the bullet deflected almost 4” and keyholed. This happened within 12” of exiting the poly.

2. Practice at shooting outside your comfort zone. That piece of readily available artificial support may not always be that perfect height. In all the time it takes to fiddle with it and make it perfect, or you going to miss the window to take your shot? Know your abilities and limitations. At the distance you are at, know how stable you need to be to make a certain shot. Unless you just want to be a recreational distance shooter, practice various standing and kneeling positions. Learn how to use a sling for support, even if it’s just a hasty sling.

3. Suppressors make life easier.

4. Doesn’t make a difference how accurate your rifle is if you’re having to clear a malfunction every 2-3 rounds. If you usually run your AR suppressed, you need to give some critical parts a cleaning now and again.

5. Make that first shot count. Steel targets are nice and patient, they’ll let you try that follow-up shot or two. Most critters, regardless of how many legs they have, will not.

6. Clear communications with your partner or team are critical. Two guys running around are twice as good as a guy by himself. Two guys that communicate and function as a team, however, are a million times better than a guy by himself.

7. For making precision or critical shots at distance, milsurp ball ammo ain’t your friend. Whatever ammo you choose, know what it is and how it behaves. It’s not good when the Instructor asks you what ammo you’re using and you can’t give the correct bullet weight.

8. It’s a good idea to both know how to dial your dope AND use your reticle for hold-offs. FFP scopes make things easier for hold-offs, but SFP’s will work as long as you’re at the correct power.

Semper Fi!
 
1. We shot through various types of residential double pane glass, with the target set approximately 12” behind the barrier. When shooting through automotive windshields, the distance to the target was from the windshield to the headrest of the front seats.

When shooting through different types of glass and polycarbonate, the general trend is that heavier is better. Students used a variety of 5.56/.223 loads with bullet weights that included 55grn, 62grn, 64grn, 69grn, 75grn, and 77grn. Additionally, I shot some Hornady TAP 5.56 70grn GMX Barrier Penetrator. The heavier bullets had less deflection from POA than the lighter bullets, regardless of bullet construction.

Within the same weight class, purpose-built bullets had less deflection. For instance, the Hornady TAP 55grn GMX Barrier Penetrator had less deflection than M193 ball, but not to a significant degree. A 77grn Sierra MatchKing, which is not an especially tough bullet, had less deflection than the 55grn TAP GMX, but similar deflection to the 70grn TAP GMX. The solid bullet design of the GMX aids slightly over the FMJ as they didn’t tumble or yaw, as the FMJ’s oftentimes did. You could tell on the residential glass that the softpoint rounds mushroomed. On the windshields, they either missed the target entirely, or we were unable to find the exact bullet hole due to so much spalling causing secondary projectiles. When the round mushrooms and makes a jagged hole, it’s difficult to tell from larger glass fragments. Clean holes and keyholes are much easier to locate.

A 168grn .308 had significantly less deflection on automotive windshields than a 140grn 6.5 Creedmoor. A 175grn .308 had slightly less deflection than the 168grn .308. I have some Federal Gold Medal Match .308 loaded with the Berger 185grn Juggernaut en route......very excited to see how it does. I am also curious as to what effect velocity has on the deviation. I plan on loading some 175grn .308’s at various velocities to see how the same projectile reacts at different speeds.

I made a few shots with a 16” .300Blk using 220grn subs. I don’t recommend it as a barrier round. For instance, after going through a 3/8”-1/2” sheet of curved polycarbonate (side door window out of a typical piece of earth moving equipment, like a dozer or skidsteer), the bullet deflected almost 4” and keyholed. This happened within 12” of exiting the poly.

2. Practice at shooting outside your comfort zone. That piece of readily available artificial support may not always be that perfect height. In all the time it takes to fiddle with it and make it perfect, or you going to miss the window to take your shot? Know your abilities and limitations. At the distance you are at, know how stable you need to be to make a certain shot. Unless you just want to be a recreational distance shooter, practice various standing and kneeling positions. Learn how to use a sling for support, even if it’s just a hasty sling.

3. Suppressors make life easier.

4. Doesn’t make a difference how accurate your rifle is if you’re having to clear a malfunction every 2-3 rounds. If you usually run your AR suppressed, you need to give some critical parts a cleaning now and again.

5. Make that first shot count. Steel targets are nice and patient, they’ll let you try that follow-up shot or two. Most critters, regardless of how many legs they have, will not.

6. Clear communications with your partner or team are critical. Two guys running around are twice as good as a guy by himself. Two guys that communicate and function as a team, however, are a million times better than a guy by himself.

7. For making precision or critical shots at distance, milsurp ball ammo ain’t your friend. Whatever ammo you choose, know what it is and how it behaves. It’s not good when the Instructor asks you what ammo you’re using and you can’t give the correct bullet weight.

8. It’s a good idea to both know how to dial your dope AND use your reticle for hold-offs. FFP scopes make things easier for hold-offs, but SFP’s will work as long as you’re at the correct power.

Semper Fi!
Good read and info.
 
Outstanding summary, thanks much! Until such time that I can make it to one or more of your classes for some formal edumacation I have a far simpler question. Which bullets tended to maintain "minute of rioter" accuracy and which ones did not?

;o)
 
Outstanding summary, thanks much! Until such time that I can make it to one or more of your classes for some formal edumacation I have a far simpler question. Which bullets tended to maintain "minute of rioter" accuracy and which ones did not?

;o)

Depends on the distance and how big the rioter is.
 
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