How big a pain in the ass is this red Loctite going to be?

[Granite3]

Blue always worked for me.

I do not like the permanency of Red.......

 

[poopdaddy]

So I'm taking an AR lower apart & I see William Robert has been here before me (I'll call him that since he did have a G2 SSA trigger installed correctly) and use RED LOCTITE on the threads of the buffer tube. Hiw to best get this off the poverty pony lower without damaging it?
View attachment 3308052

do you want to keep the tube? if you are not worried about it,lock the lower in a vice with a vice block. heat the ever livin crap out of the tube. unscrew it with a pair of channel locks. spray paint the tube black. sell in on here "anib" for 3 times the cost of a new one. but a new one and move on.

 

[greg vess]

Red has it uses like suspension on race vehicles or areas that if come loose can cause no catystrophic failure. It is not necessary anywhere on a rifle. Even bedding the barrel extension in the reciever doesn't need that kind of hold. Blue or purple are temp formulas. Red is the one you don't want on your rifle. It's a bitch to get off. Needs a lot of heat and force. Blue just needs a little head and mild force to break loose. Its a good one for rifles. Like scope rings, adj. target sights on steel slide handguns and so on

 

[greg vess]

Heat gun. Remove plastic parts. 260f will do it. Chuck it up in a vise. I use a laser temp gauge to tell the temp. Do not use to much force turning off or you could wrap the lower before temp is reached. Remove tritium sights from part if equipped. Heat up slowly, start low and work up. On screws, a sharp blow will brake the bond, screw driver with hammer. That is what I do.

Excellent information.

 

[IMDB]

Really hot boiling water, pour it slowly over the back of the receiver.

 

[hikingthehills]

What makes you think there was ever a thought process involved?

He got tired of his stocks falling off at the range and all the other operators laughing at him.

 

[Deleted member 80540]

I use a strap wrench on round parts. Open flames are dangerous. Oils or grease can go boom or start a fire. With high heat you kill springs, can destroy finishes and find that casting flaw in the lower (crack it). Aluminum and steel expand at different rates. 2610f that is dangerous for a parts that needs 260f to free, not me man. Also, any tempering will be lost.

 

[boomer]

Heat gun. Remove plastic parts. 260f will do it. Chuck it up in a vise. I use a laser temp gauge to tell the temp. Do not use to much force turning off or you could wrap the lower before temp is reached. Remove tritium sights from part if equipped. Heat up slowly, start low and work up. On screws, a sharp blow will brake the bond, screw driver with hammer. That is what I do.

I second the Heat Gun!

 

[greg vess]

You can also slip the stock all the way back to the furthest setting. The heat won't transfer that far. Once it's hot enough to melt the thread locker use the stock to turn the buffer tube. Primal but effective and won't leave any unwanted marks or mars on the tube. I've done it half a dozen ways. It just depends on how ornery it wants to be.

 

[blazedawg87]

If you don't want to reuse the buffer tube just heat it to infinity away from the lower and let it radiate up until it's breaks free.