Honda odyssey "experts"

[sniper22]

Not necessarily an expert but someone well versed. I have a 2012 odyssey that slipped time, only the front side. The rear cylinders have compression in spec but front didn't. Pulled the front head and all 6 exhaust valve had made contact with the pistons. I did the timing set before it was obvious but the damage was already there. It would still run and drive but had multiple misfires on the front cylinders only.
My question is, after I determine if the head is warped or not, do I replace the valves and seals or spend 1k for a new complete head? I am going to scope the back cylinders but the don't leak down so I'm inclined to only do the front side. In the past, I would have pulled the engine and got a good used one, now I'm not comfortable with used ones unless I'm going to throw another couple of thousand into it. Money's too tight right now and I have 6 other cars that need work.

 

[Kyzrsoze]

Not necessarily an expert but someone well versed. I have a 2012 odyssey that slipped time, only the front side. The rear cylinders have compression in spec but front didn't. Pulled the front head and all 6 exhaust valve had made contact with the pistons. I did the timing set before it was obvious but the damage was already there. It would still run and drive but had multiple misfires on the front cylinders only.
My question is, after I determine if the head is warped or not, do I replace the valves and seals or spend 1k for a new complete head? I am going to scope the back cylinders but the don't leak down so I'm inclined to only do the front side. In the past, I would have pulled the engine and got a good used one, now I'm not comfortable with used ones unless I'm going to throw another couple of thousand into it. Money's too tight right now and I have 6 other cars that need work.

Were teeth sheared off the timing belt?

 

[Kyzrsoze]

Not necessarily an expert but someone well versed. I have a 2012 odyssey that slipped time, only the front side. The rear cylinders have compression in spec but front didn't. Pulled the front head and all 6 exhaust valve had made contact with the pistons. I did the timing set before it was obvious but the damage was already there. It would still run and drive but had multiple misfires on the front cylinders only.
My question is, after I determine if the head is warped or not, do I replace the valves and seals or spend 1k for a new complete head? I am going to scope the back cylinders but the don't leak down so I'm inclined to only do the front side. In the past, I would have pulled the engine and got a good used one, now I'm not comfortable with used ones unless I'm going to throw another couple of thousand into it. Money's too tight right now and I have 6 other cars that need work.

Had a thought: were you driving the car when it happened?

My thinking - if the car was travelling over 55 mph when this happened, it's likely that VCM was engaged. VCM is Honda's cylinder deactivation mode and it shuts off the fuel injectors and valve actuators on the rear cylinder bank. If timing slipped (maybe a bad tensioner) while in this mode - running only on the front cylinder bank - the damage makes sense.

 

[tas6691]

Personally I would pull and send both to a quality machine shop and have them both worked.

If you have not torn it down yet do a compresion test on the rear cylinders. Still, it wont take another half hour to pull it...worth that for the peace of mind IMO.

My shop uses Allied Motor Parts over off Virginia Ave. Ask for Brad, tell him AutoPro sent you.

 

[sniper22]

Rear cylinders have excellent compression. I have the front head off but all the machine shops are backed up and the cost isn't much less than a new one.
The belt was changed at 100k but the guy only changed the belt. At 140k the tensioner turned loose and it only started going crazy after I installed a who new kit. It ran good for 500 miles the went nuts. A new head comes with everything including a vcm set

 

[tas6691]

Rear cylinders have excellent compression. I have the front head off but all the machine shops are backed up and the cost isn't much less than a new one.
The belt was changed at 100k but the guy only changed the belt. At 140k the tensioner turned loose and it only started going crazy after I installed a who new kit. It ran good for 500 miles the went nuts. A new head comes with everything including a vcm set

Sounds like a good gamble to replace the front head only then. I usually try to err on the side of going all in, especially if its mine. Of course when its a customers car, budget comes into play, but I always have to weigh the fact that I have to stand behind my work. Which is why I usually dont like to gamble...but sometimes you have to.

Sounds like your on the right track, please update when its together and running again.

 

[sniper22]

Sounds like a good gamble to replace the front head only then. I usually try to err on the side of going all in, especially if its mine. Of course when its a customers car, budget comes into play, but I always have to weigh the fact that I have to stand behind my work. Which is why I usually dont like to gamble...but sometimes you have to.

Sounds like your on the right track, please update when its together and running again.

The rear head is a real pita to remove, probably be easier to drop the engine then pull the rear head. This Asian stuff is different than what I grew up working on.

 

[tas6691]

I have done so many v6 FWD head jobs I rarely consider pulling the motor. Of course I started turning wrenches for a living in 1985 or 86! I hate pulling mini van motors.

 

[sniper22]

I have done so many v6 FWD head jobs I rarely consider pulling the motor. Of course I started turning wrenches for a living in 1985 or 86! I hate pulling mini van motors.

3 years ago, I was the same way. Now my muscles are all dying