I'll share a couple of things from reworking or upgrading a truck load of Glocks over many years. I was on the range the other day listening to how a Glock shooter had to work through 2 walls and I hate hearing this. Tear down your Glock which takes about 30 seconds. Remove the plunger and spring and reassemble. If that little click or mini-wall is gone then you know something about your firing pin safety plunger is not optimal.
I correct these issues without Johnny Glock polishing things to death or changing to competition springs. Check for casting lines or seams, rough spots on the plunger and make sure the spring isn't cocked sideways or not centered perfectly during assembly. A bone stock plunger and spring should press down and release buttery smooth with no clicking sounds.
I spent a good couple weeks figuring out this stealthy issue with Gen 5 trigger bars binding on the ambi slide lock lever. It's shaped like a wishbone and can also be removed prior to assembly then dry fired to see how much it was rubbing the trigger bar and causing less than desirable smoothness. I now tune them almost like you would magazine feed lips. I find the Vickers upgraded slide lock usually won't have this issue but some do. Also the extended controls cause many shooters to ride it while shooting causing the gun to malfunction or fail to lock back. So I prefer fixing the stock ones.
Gen 5 also has the stupid new trigger housing spring configuration. I had far more control with the older models. But many people reassemble wrong and miss getting the trigger bar inserted into the little clip. Be careful not to miss this when putting it back together. For earlier models you have to orient the older spring correctly but I think it was a much better setup.
I have a number of Glocks I use for training and carry that are 100% stock but when someone shoots them their eyes widen and claim it's far less pull weight than it really is. I can press off shots to long distances with zero garbage in the pre-travel yet I have that strong wall I can count on with highly aggressive defensive training.
I hope you can try to target the issues with your factory trigger before you begin wasting countless dollars on all the hyped up drop in kits out there which are totally hit and miss. I don't blindly perform 14 different things and magically get a great trigger.
My wife's IDPA Glock is equal or better than the Timney drop in everyone is going bananas over. For carry I wouldn't use it. You can get that result without the Timney even though I do think it's a neat product.
The one thing I feel is a good change is a good OEM smooth faced trigger bar and shoe for about 15$,
I should also mention the casting seam in the frame beneath the trigger shoe which can cause a binding as the trigger comes to the rear. It's way more obvious when you begin using reduced springs.
Channel liner, the plastic sleeve in your firing pin channel can be misdiagnosed. Go to a Glock match and the armorer will replace it for free. Rarely have issues with them but when the striker doesn''t run smoothly could be a worn liner.
Apex shoes with the thin aluminum safety blade in the center will eventually break. If you use those ensure you get the fixed version with the polymer center. Even after Apex acknowledged the issue they continued selling the old ones to flush stock.
I correct these issues without Johnny Glock polishing things to death or changing to competition springs. Check for casting lines or seams, rough spots on the plunger and make sure the spring isn't cocked sideways or not centered perfectly during assembly. A bone stock plunger and spring should press down and release buttery smooth with no clicking sounds.
I spent a good couple weeks figuring out this stealthy issue with Gen 5 trigger bars binding on the ambi slide lock lever. It's shaped like a wishbone and can also be removed prior to assembly then dry fired to see how much it was rubbing the trigger bar and causing less than desirable smoothness. I now tune them almost like you would magazine feed lips. I find the Vickers upgraded slide lock usually won't have this issue but some do. Also the extended controls cause many shooters to ride it while shooting causing the gun to malfunction or fail to lock back. So I prefer fixing the stock ones.
Gen 5 also has the stupid new trigger housing spring configuration. I had far more control with the older models. But many people reassemble wrong and miss getting the trigger bar inserted into the little clip. Be careful not to miss this when putting it back together. For earlier models you have to orient the older spring correctly but I think it was a much better setup.
I have a number of Glocks I use for training and carry that are 100% stock but when someone shoots them their eyes widen and claim it's far less pull weight than it really is. I can press off shots to long distances with zero garbage in the pre-travel yet I have that strong wall I can count on with highly aggressive defensive training.
I hope you can try to target the issues with your factory trigger before you begin wasting countless dollars on all the hyped up drop in kits out there which are totally hit and miss. I don't blindly perform 14 different things and magically get a great trigger.
My wife's IDPA Glock is equal or better than the Timney drop in everyone is going bananas over. For carry I wouldn't use it. You can get that result without the Timney even though I do think it's a neat product.
The one thing I feel is a good change is a good OEM smooth faced trigger bar and shoe for about 15$,
I should also mention the casting seam in the frame beneath the trigger shoe which can cause a binding as the trigger comes to the rear. It's way more obvious when you begin using reduced springs.
Channel liner, the plastic sleeve in your firing pin channel can be misdiagnosed. Go to a Glock match and the armorer will replace it for free. Rarely have issues with them but when the striker doesn''t run smoothly could be a worn liner.
Apex shoes with the thin aluminum safety blade in the center will eventually break. If you use those ensure you get the fixed version with the polymer center. Even after Apex acknowledged the issue they continued selling the old ones to flush stock.
