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Item Gone: FS 2006 Ford F-150 Lariat 5.4 4D 2wd

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Luke12

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Item Name: Item Gone: FS 2006 Ford F-150 Lariat 5.4 4D 2wd

Location: Tallapoosa

Zip Code: 30176

Item is for: Sale Only
Sale Price: 1800

Willing to Ship: No

Bill of Sale Required?: No

Item Description: Selling for a friend of the family: Was a daily driver until the engine began skipping on the way to town/work. Drove it to the local mechanic shop and was told that cylinder 8 is not performing and cylinder 7 is not far behind. Just spent a head-shaking amount on new tires so he decided to park it and sell it. Both spark plugs were replaced after the mechanic pulled them for inspection. New tires and two new spark plugs, it still cranks and drives-just rough, AC works, no trans issues, antenna is broken, front bumper appears to have been hit by wife's hitch in driveway (I know the dent when I see it), sun roof doesn't seem to cooperate, and top of gear shifter poses a hand-safety hazard, bed cover included! ~200k miles, located in Tallapoosa, GA. Asking $1,800 obo

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Mine did that, replace the coil packs myself for about $300 and it was fine. Just don't replace with the Motorcraft brand, I used Accel. There's no way to test the coil packs other than replacing them.
 
If cylinder #8 is not firing, simply switch that coil pack with any other coil pack that is firing. connect A scanner with the “Monitor” function to the OBD2 connector, fire it up and see if cyl 8 is firing and whichever cyl you put the coil pack from #8 on is misfiring. Chances are that’s all it is. Cheap simple quick fix.

edited to add: If the misfire moved to the cylinder with the coil pack from #8, replace all coil packs. About a 45 minute - one hour job. Easy to do
 
If cylinder #8 is not firing, simply switch that coil pack with any other coil pack that is firing. connect A scanner with the “Monitor” function to the OBD2 connector, fire it up and see if cyl 8 is firing and whichever cyl you put the coil pack from #8 on is misfiring. Chances are that’s all it is. Cheap simple quick fix.

edited to add: If the misfire moved to the cylinder with the coil pack from #8, replace all coil packs. About a 45 minute - one hour job. Easy to do
If not, and it’s not the #8 coil pack… what are you looking at? Most likely it’s the coil pack..?
 
If not, and it’s not the #8 coil pack… what are you looking at? Most likely it’s the coil pack..?
Many times it will be the wiring circuit going to the coil pack. Most often at the plug / connector itself on the coil pack itself. I can’t count how many times I have simply unplugged a connector, sprayed it with electrical contact cleaner and plugged it back in, and magically said problem disappeared. Sometimes it will be corrosion on the pins in the connector, dirt, loose connection etc. The connector gets hot from engine heat, cools down when the engine does, heats back up,,,,,and on and on. The connector and wires expand when hot and retract when cool. That is a breeding ground for loose / bad electrical connections. Then there are times the wiring will get chafed from rubbing against something and ground out to metal. This will prevent the voltage trauired to fire the coil pack to make it to the coil pack,,,,, but this scenario is no where nearly as common as the coil pack itself or the connector on it.
 
Do a compression test
A compression test is a great way to determine several things. First off, a cylinder with a burned valve, damaged valve seat, broken compression ring on that piston will have excessively low compression. All cylinders should be within 10% of each other on the compression gauge. And the needle on the gauge should NEVER slowly leak down. If you have a cylinder with less than 10% PSI than the others, pour a table spoon (approximately) of new engine oil into that cylinder through the spark plug hole. Perform another compression test on that cylinder and if the PSI comes up, you have a broken compression ring on that cylinder or a cracked piston. If it does not come up, you have either a burned valve, damaged valve seat, carbon build up on the valve seat preventing the valve from closing all the way and seating, weak ow broken valve spring, broken push rod or weak / collapsed lifter, or blown head gasket.

I edited one word above. I mistakenly aid “ Ifyou have one cylinder with MORE than 10% PSI than the others,,,,,,, I changed that to LESS PSI than the others.
 
Oh wow, I didn't realize I had this many comments on the post! Thanks for all the information. Truck is still available, owner doesn't want anything to do with repairing it after hearing mechanic and friends bash the ole 5.4 and her history of hickups.
 
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