Upper receiver tools:
-Geissele Reaction Rod: great for installing rails, gas blocks, and other items where you want the ability to “spin” the upper and have access all around.
-Midwest Industries URR: gives better support to the upper receiver, great for installing stuff that you have to torque hard on to install or remove
-SLR dimpling jig: dimple the barrel for secure gas block installation. Also ensures that your gas block is aligned to the gas port
-Michiguns MOACKS tool. For properly staking the gas key on the bolt carrier. You’ll need it if you ever have to replace a gas key, or correct one that is improperly staked.
-Selection of crow foot wrenches. You’ll need a 3/4” for most muzzle devices, but they can come in all sizes
-Young Manufacturing AR15/M16 bolt ejector tool. For easy replacement of the ejector and/or ejector spring.
-Heat gun. Useful for thermal fitting barrels, and breaking apart stuck parts
Lower receiver tools:
-Geissele Reaction Block: a must have for properly installing castle nuts. Also, excellent for holding the lower receiver in various positions while working on it
-Mathew 5/32x4 1/2 punch. For staking castle nuts
-BCM KMR barrel nut wrench. Best tool I’ve used for installing castle nuts.
-Brownell’s AR15 pivot pin detent installation tool
-Glock 03374 disassembly takedown tool, use with pivot pin detent tool
-KNS Precision hammer cage
-Wheeler Engineering bolt catch installation tool kit
General tools:
-AR Armorer’s wrench: Tapco, Magpul, TruGlo, etc. Very useful if you’re dealing with the military barrel nut that goes with the retention system of the 2-piece handguards. Some companies, like Troy, also use that barrel nut on some of their rails.
-torque wrenches to do both inch and foot pounds. For foot pounds, something that will handle a range of 30-80 foot pounds will do. For inch pounds, a Wheeler FAT Wrench will work fine.
-Breaker bar, something around 18”. You’ll need it for breaking parts loose. Loosening stuff with a torque wrench can damage the wrench, so use this instead.
-AeroShell 64: milspec anti-seize for installing barrel nuts and castle nuts
-RockSett for secure attachment of muzzle devices that will be used with a suppressor
-A set of Allen and torx bits. I use the Brownell’s Magna-Tip set.
-a hammer with brass and hard nylon faces, for general smacking
-a solid ball peen hammer of some heft, for staking the castle nut
-bench vise
-nylon and rubber jaw sets to use in the vice and protect your parts
-set of quality steel punches
-Wheeler Engineering universal bench block, the round one
-Kroil or similar penetrating oil
-Geissele Reaction Rod: great for installing rails, gas blocks, and other items where you want the ability to “spin” the upper and have access all around.
-Midwest Industries URR: gives better support to the upper receiver, great for installing stuff that you have to torque hard on to install or remove
-SLR dimpling jig: dimple the barrel for secure gas block installation. Also ensures that your gas block is aligned to the gas port
-Michiguns MOACKS tool. For properly staking the gas key on the bolt carrier. You’ll need it if you ever have to replace a gas key, or correct one that is improperly staked.
-Selection of crow foot wrenches. You’ll need a 3/4” for most muzzle devices, but they can come in all sizes
-Young Manufacturing AR15/M16 bolt ejector tool. For easy replacement of the ejector and/or ejector spring.
-Heat gun. Useful for thermal fitting barrels, and breaking apart stuck parts
Lower receiver tools:
-Geissele Reaction Block: a must have for properly installing castle nuts. Also, excellent for holding the lower receiver in various positions while working on it
-Mathew 5/32x4 1/2 punch. For staking castle nuts
-BCM KMR barrel nut wrench. Best tool I’ve used for installing castle nuts.
-Brownell’s AR15 pivot pin detent installation tool
-Glock 03374 disassembly takedown tool, use with pivot pin detent tool
-KNS Precision hammer cage
-Wheeler Engineering bolt catch installation tool kit
General tools:
-AR Armorer’s wrench: Tapco, Magpul, TruGlo, etc. Very useful if you’re dealing with the military barrel nut that goes with the retention system of the 2-piece handguards. Some companies, like Troy, also use that barrel nut on some of their rails.
-torque wrenches to do both inch and foot pounds. For foot pounds, something that will handle a range of 30-80 foot pounds will do. For inch pounds, a Wheeler FAT Wrench will work fine.
-Breaker bar, something around 18”. You’ll need it for breaking parts loose. Loosening stuff with a torque wrench can damage the wrench, so use this instead.
-AeroShell 64: milspec anti-seize for installing barrel nuts and castle nuts
-RockSett for secure attachment of muzzle devices that will be used with a suppressor
-A set of Allen and torx bits. I use the Brownell’s Magna-Tip set.
-a hammer with brass and hard nylon faces, for general smacking
-a solid ball peen hammer of some heft, for staking the castle nut
-bench vise
-nylon and rubber jaw sets to use in the vice and protect your parts
-set of quality steel punches
-Wheeler Engineering universal bench block, the round one
-Kroil or similar penetrating oil
