This is coming from someone who used to make a living running an Ammco brake lathe in my former life. If you aint careful, you’ll make your rotor/drum worse than it was to begin with.
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I meant .010 would be about 20-100x out of spec (aerospace) or 4x (Chinese anything) for anything drawn on paper, but you already know that.Not sure if you are saying it was good or bad. All I know is there was .002 runout when I gave them the rotors. I checked them before disassembly. Just needed the gouges removed from previous pads. Sucked it up and bought new rotors today. I try to give local guys a chance at my business but they run me off just about every time with their lack of know how.
Oreillys does it. The one local to me just turned a set and gave them back to me with .010 runout. Good help is hard to find.
You dont think you will feel a braking surface thats not parallel to the hub face? Think again…Most calipers today are floating. .010 inch will not be noticed if both sides of the disk have The same runout. That is easy with a disk lathe because it cuts both sides at the same time. If you have a disk that is .010 out and that is one section of the disk is .010 thicker than another section you are going to feel a lot of pulsing in the brake pedal.
Yea… I took a set of rear drums off my 86 Bronco to O’Reallys and the guy couldn’t figure out how to chuckem up since they didn’t have a hub so he said he couldn’t turn them. Carried them over to NAPA on PIB and got them to do it.Oreillys does it. The one local to me just turned a set and gave them back to me with .010 runout. Good help is hard to find.
What price difference were you seeing? I’ve heard people say this. On my superduty it’s $10-$20 per rotor turned vs $120 minimum for a potentially decent one new. I might could find a little cheaper if shopped on line, but I’m not putting bottom of the line components on my truck.Last time I priced turning rotors new ones were cheaper.