ditch the Manual trimmer. Get something powered. Life is too short for manual trimmers.
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Advice for novice. (Getting started)
- Thread starter DrManhattan
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ditch the Manual trimmer. Get something powered. Life is too short for manual trimmers.
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I loath brass trimming. The most hated aspect of reloading for me.
That's my first press I bought a couple weeks ago, so far I really enjoy itAnd I'm gonna have to disagree with you.
OP listed a bunch of calibers, including a mix of both primer sizes, straight wall pistol, small bottleneck rifle, larger bottleneck rifle, and shotgun. If he starts with something like a Square Deal, he's only going to be able to handle one of those straight wall calibers for a starting cost of about $500 - $600, he'll have to pay a bunch of money for other pistol caliber conversions, and he won't be able to do rifle (or shotgun). And some turret presses have auto advance mechanisms...no manual turning.
OP, here's an inexpensive way to start, that will handle every caliber you listed except 12ga:
Lee Classic Cast Turret Press ... some of Lee's products are "fiddly." This isn't one of those. Solid as they come, cast iron and steel, probably the best turret press design ever, quality made in the USA. Can do pistol rounds at 150 to 200 rounds/hour and load rifle as a single stage press. And it's a very easy press to learn on. Let's you learn both single stage and "semi progressive" loading concepts.
Get an extra turret for each caliber. About $12 each. Let's you set your dies once and never have to adjust them again. Get Lee deluxe four die pistol sets. Get Lee deluxe three die rifle sets (or other brands...any 7/8" dies work with this setup).
You'll spend $125 or so on the press, and about $50 per caliber (turret and dies). You'll spend another $100 to $200 on accessories (scale, tumbler, powder measure, caliper, various small tools).
Recommend you start with your favorite pistol caliber, and the rifle caliber you shoot most of. Pistol and rifle are different processes. Learn them on this setup. It may be all you ever need. If you turn into a reloading junky, you might upgrade to (or add) a fully progressive press later on. Or you might add a traditional single stage. Each of us does this a bit differently.
Regarding reloading 12ga: Not worth it, except for exotic loads (steel shot), and maybe self-defense rounds. Birdshot? Forget it. Unless you are competition shooter wanting to customize your loads, it costs more per round to load than what you can buy at the store.
I am a low-volume guy.
I have a Hornady lock and load single stage.
I like being able to set dies up and change them easily.
I mainly reload 223. One thing I like about single stage is you can handle and inspect each case. Very important to cull out bad ones (although they are rare.)
I have a powder dropper, and it does a good job metering CFE223. The other thing about that powder is it will almost fill the case up, so you will easily spot a double charge or over charge.
One word of caution: The digital scale that came with my hornady kit was absolute ****. That thing was just junk. I bought a set of weights to check the scale, and it was regularly off by 3 to 5 grains. Unacceptable!
I bought an RCBS beam scale and love it! Not much to go wrong with a beam scale. I would just keep it covered with some Tupperware when not in use. Dust can throw it off a little, and it’s kind of fragile. You don’t want anything big falling on it.
As far as priming, I got a hand primer tray (Lee). I don’t like fooling with individual primers. Too fussy and small for my fingers.
I got an RCBS swager die for my primer pockets. Work great! Much better than reaming in my opinion.
Just take things slow. Read at least two full manuals before you get started. Ultimate reloader is a good you tube channel.
I have a Hornady lock and load single stage.
I like being able to set dies up and change them easily.
I mainly reload 223. One thing I like about single stage is you can handle and inspect each case. Very important to cull out bad ones (although they are rare.)
I have a powder dropper, and it does a good job metering CFE223. The other thing about that powder is it will almost fill the case up, so you will easily spot a double charge or over charge.
One word of caution: The digital scale that came with my hornady kit was absolute ****. That thing was just junk. I bought a set of weights to check the scale, and it was regularly off by 3 to 5 grains. Unacceptable!
I bought an RCBS beam scale and love it! Not much to go wrong with a beam scale. I would just keep it covered with some Tupperware when not in use. Dust can throw it off a little, and it’s kind of fragile. You don’t want anything big falling on it.
As far as priming, I got a hand primer tray (Lee). I don’t like fooling with individual primers. Too fussy and small for my fingers.
I got an RCBS swager die for my primer pockets. Work great! Much better than reaming in my opinion.
Just take things slow. Read at least two full manuals before you get started. Ultimate reloader is a good you tube channel.
I use the RCBS swager die as well. I feel it is more consistent than reaming. I use a WFT2 from little crow gun works to trim. they have inserts for about any sammi spec rifle case and a lot of wildcats. I just chuck it up in my drill press and trim brass like I am sharpening pencils.
I have a Franklin case prep center.
I like it a lot. I have a hand crank trimmer, but I don't use that anymore.
I find hand trimming fussy and time consuming. Electric is the way to go.
Just my experience.
Agree with posters asking you the question (for you to ask yourself) do you want VOLUME or do you want quality? Not saying Dillon won't give quality, but I can definitely see it becoming frustrating until you KNOW the steps and can keep a number of things going on in your head at one time, my suggestion would be single stage as well. You can always keep the single stage as an off line machine to do something particular, or just sell the press when you upgrade later.
Turret presses sound like a great idea. I have often thought of getting one, but still use my Old Rock Chucker from 1978. It has never failed me.
Some of the tips that I agree with.
*Don't prime on the press, get an off line "hand primer" set up. Get the little "flipper tray" or a hand primer that has the primer tray built in. Priming is an important step. You will find some cases with oversized primer pockets and you will know that with a hand primer, because you get much more "feedback" from that style priming.
*Cleaning primer pockets is a pain, so a motorized station that offers primer pocket cleaning is a good accessory, in the beginning and later.
*Start with straight wall pistol reloading. Buy Carbide die sets. Eliminates the lube process that rifle cases require, thereby shortening and simplifying the steps, for a while.
*Digital scales are faster, and as pointed out, get a good one, not a cheap one. I still hand measure on an RCBS scale and it is slow. You do not have to weigh every charge, unless you are REALLY going for that accurate rifle round. Most powder measures throw decently consistent.
*Get a tumbler that is probably bigger than you think you want. You will use all of it's capacity soon enough on your journey. And don't get the Lyman 1200 with the open vented top cover. I bought one NIB from a guy that had several components for sale at a great price. Not sure why Lyman designed it that way? I have an earlier model with nice large bowl and solid cover. It is quieter, and it doesn't throw media dust all over my work bench. I am actually about to order a National Metallic Quiet XL. Good price and if it lasts like my original Lyman tumbler, I will be very happy. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1021383076?pid=933392
*Find some sort of plastic bottle or container that are cheap and have lids. You will use them to separate all your different brass once they are cleaned, or primed, up until the stage that you drop powder and seat bullet. Then you will need old ammo boxes or new plastic ammo boxes.
*Get a note book or journal. You should keep notes about every load you produce. Some loads will do fine in one gun, but maybe not another. You will find that .2 grains can make a group size difference or point shift. So mark your loads and make notes after testing them.
*When you get to rifle cartridges, I use small base with my 5.56. I am not trying to load those over and over. So case longevity is not my plan. PLUS, I have SO many 5.56 rifles (and pistols) to guarantee the loads will work in all my firearms, they need to be resized with a small base resizer. On larger calibers, like in target or hunting rifles, you can just shoulder size, to make the brass last longer. That will be a much smaller volume of loading. Bolt actions and even semi autos (as long as it is the same semi auto) can usually feed your rifle cases, if fired in that gun at least once, so they are fire formed to that chamber. If the brass does not come from your gun, you will need to at least Full Length size once. You will have to check your resized cartridges to be sure they chamber in your gun, before going to the trouble to do a complete reload.
* Get a good set or reloading manuals. Best way to start with a concise information over a broad range. You can always add load data from other sources as you grow your reference library.
* Reloading is not like Fishing. Most guys who reload will share all their secrets about reloading with you.
Have fun and good luck!
I got into reloading because I had an AR-180 in 1980. Still have an AR-180. I read an article from one of the gun mags of the day that featured the author coming up various loads in 5.56 and with one fantastic load that was very accurate. I wanted in on that action. Been having fun every since. Some of my loads are for range time, some are for hunting and closely associated with that (because everyone loves accuracy), I have my target loads which are highly satisfying.
Agree with posters asking you the question (for you to ask yourself) do you want VOLUME or do you want quality? Not saying Dillon won't give quality, but I can definitely see it becoming frustrating until you KNOW the steps and can keep a number of things going on in your head at one time, my suggestion would be single stage as well. You can always keep the single stage as an off line machine to do something particular, or just sell the press when you upgrade later.
Turret presses sound like a great idea. I have often thought of getting one, but still use my Old Rock Chucker from 1978. It has never failed me.
Some of the tips that I agree with.
*Don't prime on the press, get an off line "hand primer" set up. Get the little "flipper tray" or a hand primer that has the primer tray built in. Priming is an important step. You will find some cases with oversized primer pockets and you will know that with a hand primer, because you get much more "feedback" from that style priming.
*Cleaning primer pockets is a pain, so a motorized station that offers primer pocket cleaning is a good accessory, in the beginning and later.
*Start with straight wall pistol reloading. Buy Carbide die sets. Eliminates the lube process that rifle cases require, thereby shortening and simplifying the steps, for a while.
*Digital scales are faster, and as pointed out, get a good one, not a cheap one. I still hand measure on an RCBS scale and it is slow. You do not have to weigh every charge, unless you are REALLY going for that accurate rifle round. Most powder measures throw decently consistent.
*Get a tumbler that is probably bigger than you think you want. You will use all of it's capacity soon enough on your journey. And don't get the Lyman 1200 with the open vented top cover. I bought one NIB from a guy that had several components for sale at a great price. Not sure why Lyman designed it that way? I have an earlier model with nice large bowl and solid cover. It is quieter, and it doesn't throw media dust all over my work bench. I am actually about to order a National Metallic Quiet XL. Good price and if it lasts like my original Lyman tumbler, I will be very happy. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1021383076?pid=933392
*Find some sort of plastic bottle or container that are cheap and have lids. You will use them to separate all your different brass once they are cleaned, or primed, up until the stage that you drop powder and seat bullet. Then you will need old ammo boxes or new plastic ammo boxes.
*Get a note book or journal. You should keep notes about every load you produce. Some loads will do fine in one gun, but maybe not another. You will find that .2 grains can make a group size difference or point shift. So mark your loads and make notes after testing them.
*When you get to rifle cartridges, I use small base with my 5.56. I am not trying to load those over and over. So case longevity is not my plan. PLUS, I have SO many 5.56 rifles (and pistols) to guarantee the loads will work in all my firearms, they need to be resized with a small base resizer. On larger calibers, like in target or hunting rifles, you can just shoulder size, to make the brass last longer. That will be a much smaller volume of loading. Bolt actions and even semi autos (as long as it is the same semi auto) can usually feed your rifle cases, if fired in that gun at least once, so they are fire formed to that chamber. If the brass does not come from your gun, you will need to at least Full Length size once. You will have to check your resized cartridges to be sure they chamber in your gun, before going to the trouble to do a complete reload.
* Get a good set or reloading manuals. Best way to start with a concise information over a broad range. You can always add load data from other sources as you grow your reference library.
* Reloading is not like Fishing. Most guys who reload will share all their secrets about reloading with you.
Have fun and good luck!
I got into reloading because I had an AR-180 in 1980. Still have an AR-180. I read an article from one of the gun mags of the day that featured the author coming up various loads in 5.56 and with one fantastic load that was very accurate. I wanted in on that action. Been having fun every since. Some of my loads are for range time, some are for hunting and closely associated with that (because everyone loves accuracy), I have my target loads which are highly satisfying.
I think the most important thing for a new reloader to consider is personality.....
Be real honest with yourself:
-Are you a careful person?
-Do you follow instructions well-color inside the lines?
-Are you detail oriented?
-Do you take pride in doing things better than others?
*Reloading data is not a "close-enough" thing. They create max and min loads for a reason-and there are not buffers.*
I am thinking of a couple of friends who have been curious about reloading. One in particular is someone who I think would get into trouble. He is always in a rush. Always jumping to conclusions (tries to finish sentences for others.) He is easily frustrated, and did I mention-impatient? (Honestly, I think he has some kind of ADHD.)
Someone like that really should avoid the hobby. He's a wonderful person-one of my very favorite people on Earth.... BUT he would be a horrible reloader.
He also likes to drink. Like all day when he's off.
Drinking and reloading is a horrible idea. I never, ever touch a drop when I am near my equipment.
All that being said.... If you have the right kind of personality, reloading is a great way to learn way more than you thought you could about how guns work, and how to make much better ammo than a factory can. It's also a fabulous way to produce ammo that a particular gun loves. Once you find the right load for a high powered rifle, you will see accuracy really improve remarkably.
Reloading is a great way to clear your mind as well. I think that's my favorite thing about it. You tend to forget all your concerns and worries when you are focused on just one thing at a time-and doing it right.
It's also cool to be able to churn out unobtainable ammo during a crisis. Like now.
But be brutally honest.... Are you the right kind of person? Will you thoroughly read and truly understand two or three complete reloading manuals first? If so, welcome to the hobby!
Be real honest with yourself:
-Are you a careful person?
-Do you follow instructions well-color inside the lines?
-Are you detail oriented?
-Do you take pride in doing things better than others?
*Reloading data is not a "close-enough" thing. They create max and min loads for a reason-and there are not buffers.*
I am thinking of a couple of friends who have been curious about reloading. One in particular is someone who I think would get into trouble. He is always in a rush. Always jumping to conclusions (tries to finish sentences for others.) He is easily frustrated, and did I mention-impatient? (Honestly, I think he has some kind of ADHD.)
Someone like that really should avoid the hobby. He's a wonderful person-one of my very favorite people on Earth.... BUT he would be a horrible reloader.
He also likes to drink. Like all day when he's off.
Drinking and reloading is a horrible idea. I never, ever touch a drop when I am near my equipment.
All that being said.... If you have the right kind of personality, reloading is a great way to learn way more than you thought you could about how guns work, and how to make much better ammo than a factory can. It's also a fabulous way to produce ammo that a particular gun loves. Once you find the right load for a high powered rifle, you will see accuracy really improve remarkably.
Reloading is a great way to clear your mind as well. I think that's my favorite thing about it. You tend to forget all your concerns and worries when you are focused on just one thing at a time-and doing it right.
It's also cool to be able to churn out unobtainable ammo during a crisis. Like now.
But be brutally honest.... Are you the right kind of person? Will you thoroughly read and truly understand two or three complete reloading manuals first? If so, welcome to the hobby!
this is very true. I have a buddy i shoot with sometimes. we were loading up some .308 for a rifle of his...he had been drinking, I had him seating bullets. how can you **** up that? its easy, you seat bullets in empty cases. had to weigh 40 rounds....4 were "loaded" with no powder. Pulled em down. kicked him out the reloading room and put his ass to bed. then i finished his ammo. I WILL drink de-capping/resizing brass. never when dumping powder or seating. asking for a KABOOM.
