Go down south hwy 225 and see Stan Fleming he's a go too guy on chevy engines, he is on the left before Cananland Christian School in a block building 770 709 8517
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1984 Chevy 350 still being a headache to get running right
- Thread starter grandall1972
- Start date
Has the trans been changed? Sounds like incorrect gearing......
If for sure its a SM465? Or are you reading the RPO list? Just curious.....
Has the rear axle been changed? SM465's came with 3:42 or lower for towing.
NP833 style transmission also had 3:73 or lower from factory.
Being a 1984 model with a 4 speed, can you tell me what kind of transmission it has, and what the rear gear ratio is.
Some of these trucks came with NP833 style transmissions( yes a known dodge tranny installed from factory). if you have a high gear in the rear end such as a 3:08, It'll drive but no power due to indifference in final drive ratio. 1st gear will pull fine, second and third with wind out a long ways, then 4th is actually overdrive. .
P.S. this era of engine also had a retarded cam gear marking for fuel efficiency, and had almost no advance in timing. same gear set can be used from a 76 model engine with better results. Also you can buy a adjustable vacuum advance for you HEI setup. May help with your tweaking for more power.
Just my 2 cents. worth looking at the trans and gear ratios first.
If for sure its a SM465? Or are you reading the RPO list? Just curious.....
Has the rear axle been changed? SM465's came with 3:42 or lower for towing.
NP833 style transmission also had 3:73 or lower from factory.
Being a 1984 model with a 4 speed, can you tell me what kind of transmission it has, and what the rear gear ratio is.
Some of these trucks came with NP833 style transmissions( yes a known dodge tranny installed from factory). if you have a high gear in the rear end such as a 3:08, It'll drive but no power due to indifference in final drive ratio. 1st gear will pull fine, second and third with wind out a long ways, then 4th is actually overdrive. .
P.S. this era of engine also had a retarded cam gear marking for fuel efficiency, and had almost no advance in timing. same gear set can be used from a 76 model engine with better results. Also you can buy a adjustable vacuum advance for you HEI setup. May help with your tweaking for more power.
Just my 2 cents. worth looking at the trans and gear ratios first.
At this point I would say the carb is probably the problem. The power pump/piston doesn’t appear to be operating from what you are describing. It may need a rebuild.
Those Edelbrock carbs are made by Carter and arent too bad IMO.
I have run them on several cars with good results.
Those Edelbrock carbs are made by Carter and arent too bad IMO.
I have run them on several cars with good results.
Definitely sm465, L, 1,2,3 and the L is very low as it should be.
Post a picture of the build codes from the glove box. It is the sticker with a ton of 3 and 4 letter groups.
Not one in the glove box. Only sticker remaining is the camper loading information.
Take a look at the plugs. If they look okay try this.
Hook a long rubber hose to a propane bottle,small like a torch. Run it to the carb. Drive it and when it acts up feed it some propane
Hook a long rubber hose to a propane bottle,small like a torch. Run it to the carb. Drive it and when it acts up feed it some propane
I have a Brother in Chatsworth who would be happy to help if you're up to it?
Can't tell from the pics very well, does the drivers side exhaust have a thermal heat controlled valve that maybe stuck closed? Most people would cut them out or weld them open unless they used headers. If closed, can cause exhaust back pressure to become great enough to stall the engine.
If the intake has a cross-over between heads, overheating this can cause the smooth idle but soft to harsh miss fire. Fuel boiling point exceeded
Also see if intake has possible crack in the crossover that opens slightly due to heat and can dilute the mixture. Of course this requires intake removal.
Block ID can be found behind the driver side head on block landing. Verify that is a 350? There is also a ID on the front of the engine located passenger side just above the water pump mount with a stamped code. this might give you an idea of what your working with.
sniper22 has laid out a possible choice. Or we can guess at this some more. lol.
I do wish you luck.
If the intake has a cross-over between heads, overheating this can cause the smooth idle but soft to harsh miss fire. Fuel boiling point exceeded
Also see if intake has possible crack in the crossover that opens slightly due to heat and can dilute the mixture. Of course this requires intake removal.
Block ID can be found behind the driver side head on block landing. Verify that is a 350? There is also a ID on the front of the engine located passenger side just above the water pump mount with a stamped code. this might give you an idea of what your working with.
sniper22 has laid out a possible choice. Or we can guess at this some more. lol.
I do wish you luck.
I would be interested. Just want it fixed. Right now it’s mostly yard art. Needs tires too, but that’s easy. Once it’s running right and I’m happy with it, its time for paint and body.
