Not to mention the wild variances in ammo, suppressed vs non-suppresssed (commonly suppressed caliber), and gas system lengths.
I think that 300 builds are way trickier than 5.56.
May want to check that your hammer spring is installed in the correct orientation. If you didn’t have to fight the tension a bit while putting the hammer pin through, it may be installed backwards.
Also 300 blackout is notoriously finicky due to the wide variety of loads, bullet weights...
i have had magwells that wouldn't drop polymer mags free on assembly of a brand new lower.
i found that - with some shooting - the carbon and oil residue, plus natural wear would eventually remedy the situation.
Not sure if the OP is checking this thread still but you may want to throw a milspec trigger and hammer into the lower to test function.
From the last photo it appears that it's an aftermarket hammer and maybe trigger too. I know that some of the specialized non-milspec hammers require the...
I have a new 1022 and experienced some of the same issues as you.
First, with the BX25 mags - holding the mag with your support hand while firing can induce failures to feed. Hold the stock instead. This fixed 95% of my problems.
Also installing the auto bolt release ($10 part and five...
Barrel: AR Performance or FN - $185ish
BCG: PSA, Daniel Defense, or BCM - $160ish
LPK: Daniel Defense or PSA - $50 to 90
Trigger: ALG (on a budget) or Geiselle - $50 to 250
Hand guard: stock M4, magpul or B5 - $15 to 40
Stock: MFT minimalist - $45
Buffer: Standard or H buffer - BCM or PSA - $20...
I couldn't like this post twice so I quoted it so I could like my own quote.
Nibx bcg's are known to cause issues. The coating interferes with the tolerances.
Reman ammo is known to cause issues.
Glad you got it worked out. If the hammer slides into place easily - you're doing it wrong. You usually have to fight that SOB into position and push the pin through while fighting the tension of the spring the whole time. It's one of the many times that I wish I had three arms.
Have you function checked the lower with no upper on it?
skip to 1:50 in the video for function check
skip to 2:15 - does your hammer release from the disconnector when the trigger is released?
Trigger and/or disconnector installed incorrectly - possibly?
Pics of the inside of the lower, focused on the trigger parts would help.
Also, I had this problem once but it was not due to incorrect installation. The hammer - specifically - the hook to interact with the disconnector was out of...
could it really flatten the nose? seems like it would take a lot of force to do that.
also, maybe i'm just another bubba with tools in his garage, but as soon as that detent is captured by the front pivot pin - i hope to never see that ****ing thing again. i don't care if it gets some scars on...
one trick that i just picked up for the front detent...
use a big punch like a 5/16 or 1/4 and put through the takedown pin holes the opposite way that the takedown pin goes in for assembly. using needle-noose pliers with a death-grip on the detent, push the detent in and slide the punch over...
To steak...I mean stake, I use a center punch and a hammer. Would love to get the spring loaded auto but I've probably done my last lower for a while.
Btw, I've never f'd up with the punch and hammer but you definitely have to take your time.
Ur pot metal Sig iz p00p
But I kid...Sigs are nice guns other than the high bore axis. My .40 p226 was hard to keep on target. But maybe I have weak, girly hands...who knows?
Still, probably one of the smoothest DA trigger pulls...