I've got a black anodized aluminum part (Ruger grip frame) that had about 10-20% of the finish removed abrasively by a former owner. I've done several applications of Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black and it's now a dark, flat black. It looks much better now but it doesn't have the gloss of the...
Give Bill Schwarz a call and explain your problem. He's a gunsmith in Ellijay who does a lot of work on SxS's.
706.276.7668.
Bill is also a Vietnam vet. Thank you for your service brother.
Don't use Hoppe's or any similar bore solvent; it will damage the plating. If you're polishing it you probably don't need to clean it first anyway. I've had good results with Simichrome Polish, a soft cloth, and hand polishing with a lot of patience. I would not use a Dremel or other power tool...
I'm pretty sure it's polyurethane. Hard to remove.
Most of the B92's are a very light colored wood and when you remove the finish it's almost white.
It's lots of work but if you do a good job of staining and finishing it should look better than it did new.
Browning collectors will not approve...
The Redhawk base allows interchangeable blades, both factory and aftermarket. Ruger factory parts are usually not expensive. You will need to test fire your gun after the barrel is shortened to determine the proper height.
It's a Winchester model 1873, .38 WCF (.38-40) caliber and yes it is collectible and no it should not be restored. It is more valuable in it's present condition. It's value greatly depends on condition and only a hands-on inspection can determine that.
Dimensions of Ruger parts can vary a little from gun to gun but I have the same model flattop and I've not had the throats reamed.
It has acceptable (for me) accuracy considering the short barrel. For the first few hundred rounds, I fed it only jacketed bullets at moderate velocity to smooth up...
Using flammable solvents in an ultrasonic cleaner sounds scary to me. Water based solutions are what most people use. As for getting all of the water out of gun parts, dipping in acetone, alcohol, or lacquer thinner afterwards should displace the water.
If it was me, I would start by taking a class or classes at a local technical school. Or at least talk to one of their instructors and ask for suggestions.
Caswell Plating sells both a liquid concentrate and a gel; both are applied cold. Reviews on their website are all positive but I would like to hear your experience. Thanks.
I'm probably going to use that to strip the rust but I assume that the metal will then be bare with no pattern. Any idea of how to bring out the pattern?