I get that. I understand the foaming issue, pump clicks off early due to foaming. Still it is an assumption at best and not an accurate method to determine actual mpg.
It isn't foam when it runs through the pump at the station. I understand that it foams in the tank, but a gallon is a gallon. Unless the stations flow meter is off and that is doubtful.
For $120. per tire the Uniroyal Tiger Paw A/S touring is a good value and a great ride. I would not have said so 10 years ago, they have upped their game. The Yokohama Avid Ascend GT is around $140. a tire and an awesome tire, great ride great traction and great wear. The URTP is a 700 tread...
What kind of car is it? What tire size?
The Comfort Tread Tires are problematic. I have found the problem is in the bead. They changed the design years ago and since then they are a pain in the ass to get right. The bead does not seat right on the rim even though they look perfect. Airing them...
At the end of the day there are good and bad ones in every brand and price point.
The difference is in the shop that installs them. Some (not many) actually pay attention to the tire during balancing and will not allow a ****y one to leave on a customers vehicle, or at least inform the customer...
Have them balanced with a road force variation balancer. That will pinpoint any issues. Depending on tire size, anything with a RF number below 15-17 on a truck tire should ride well. Of course lower is better and I have seen many clock in below 8-10 .
GOODYEARS ride quality sucks. I started with GOODYEAR in 1982.
Out of round is only one consideration. Lateral runout is another. Also ply Gap and heavy spots cause many ride disturbance issues.
Did you drain the fuel tank and clean it out? Then clean the carb and the bowl. Run some seafoam through it, I would also replace the fuel line if it is rubber hose.
The absolute most important thing on that 2.3l is keep the oil fresh and clean. The cam followers (rocker arms) are oiled by small oil passages (hole in the camshaft lobe) they clog and result in worn cam lobes and worn out followers.
Yeah it is clearly hitting the frame. I still think a tubular control arm would eliminate most of the issues with little to no modifications. This would eliminate the area of interference with the frame section.
Yes it is normal for the gaskets to get hard over time. The carbon build up happens primarily after the engine is shut down, blow by and crank case gases contains carbon and will settle on internal parts then begin to turn more solid as they cool, eventually you get the build up seen in the...
The photo of the truck sitting on all fours , the stance is low in the rear high in the front. Common on old drag cars, trucks. Taller springs in the front will change the angle of the upper control arm. On this set up it pushes the frame up and the lower control arm downward altering the amount...
No. I would suggest taking it to a local guy or shop that does the old stuff and customs for a living.
https://www.rmgaragejax.com/
These guys are in Jacksonville, I have heard good things but as with all repair ya never know till you talk with them face to face. Trying to diagnose or come up...
Also take a close look at the front coils springs. They have most likely been changed with a taller and stiffer spring.
Shame you live so far away, I have an awesome front end guy, learned his craft dirt track racing so he understands the geometry and how changes affect drivability and handling.
Correct, the old mustang II ran a lot of pos. caster +2.2-+3.5 that means the upper ball joint will be to the rear of the lower. By tilting the control arm the caster is increased without altering the camber.
Most aftermarket setups will be more square with more range of adjustment.
That is factory for that front end a lot of pos. caster.
Interesting that the damage is exactly where the rear control arm stud is located, looks like the control arm has been hitting the stud during launch.